Sunday 24 April 2016

Meandering around Bishkek & Astana

Bishkek
This half term saw me flitting from Tashkent to Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) to Astana (Kazakhstan). Choosing these countries was easy; no visa required. Not that any of the border guards know this as I did get asked if I need one EVERY single time.


First on the plane; watching the peasants await their turn


I arrived to Bishkek at 6pm on Sunday evening with the sole intent of being at one with the Kyrgyz people. This would involve getting a marshutka (minibus) to the city centre from the airport, as I had carefully researched online. My patience with being at one with the people lasted a total of 4 minutes, or so my casio watch told me. I’d already been mobbed by the taxi drivers by the entrance, but I had assured them I am at one with the Kyrgyz and must take marshutka. Therefore, under the pretence of taking some photos, I sidled along the car park to throw myself at the mercy of the taxi drivers I’d rejected 4 and a half minutes prior. We eventually got to the price of 200 som, and I shared the taxi with 2 overexcited medic students who were insistent on giggling for the entire 40 minute journey at my foreignness and lack of Kyrgyz pizazz.

Manas airport in Bishkek with said bus that would allow me to full fill my true destiny to be Kyrgyz; had I gotten on it


My 1st day started off with a new friend taking me to Osh Bazaar. I had been warned of the fake policeman eager to sell your own passport to you under the ruse of vigilante. No-one approached me and it seemed as if I was more free to take photos than in Uzbekistan. After accidentally circling the bazaar 4 times I ambled down чуй street to the main sites. This included waiting 40 minutes until the changing of the Kyrgyz flagpole; an event that happens every 2 hours and involves some serious leg flexibility. It was probably the highlight of my trip, even more so as one of them almost kicked me in the face as I got dangerously close to falling over the gate.


Osh Bazaar



Let me sell you some hard boiled eggs

Come into my underground toilet

We serve all your bread needs, if you like lapyoshka

A colourful array of fruits and vegetables on offer




Flexibility

Nestled opposite the Soviet circus, and Damas Hotel lies a disused casino. Following the fall of the Soviet Union, gambling became illegal and the casino shut down and raided for all it had. These days, all that remains are the vague remnants of some colourful paint on the walls and the elusive signs of what might have once been. Unfortunately it was locked around the entire perimeter so it was impossible to get inside. Also, seemingly unwatched by the police; a rare sight in these parts. Glass still lies on the floor since 2010 as the government officials refuse to recognise what it once was by cleaning it up.
Ex-casino





Writing in English; I see what you did there


Despite Bishkek being a fairly unkempt city, it hid a few gems. One of which was Sierra Coffee; a, dare I say, hip establishment on Manas Street. Colourful bike racks adorned the outside and if I’d had a bike, I would’ve felt hip using it.

Coffaaay

Aforementioned bike racks

Enjoying the sunny day with flags and statues

For 10 som you can find out your exact weight on these nifty scales

They now show movies on the local marshutkas; I watched Harry Potter on the way to the airport

Buy my wares; my van is carpeted

Astana
I was hoping for more civilisation in Astana, but trust me after 6 months in Tashkent I just wanted to stand in McDonald's and let the grease seep into my pores. Luckily, the McDonald’s had just opened in Astana and was a tourist site in itself; the 1st one in Central Asia.


woooo



Hostel cat

Hearting Astana

Synagogue


 Wandering around the city, and there’s more of a police presence than in Bishkek. Either that, or the lads just like the ole camo gear whilst on their paintballing stag do…


Other highlights include taking the lift up the impressive Bayterek Tower that stands in the middle of the main boulevard and overlooks the Khan Shatyr entertainment centre. This centre is arguable one of the main sights and boasts a Topshop, Zara, and indoor beach. 
Bayterek monument

View of the city


Arriving back to Tashkent involved the usual hounding for a taxi. I managed to pay a very reasonable 10,000 som and I threw in my proposal of conversation of worldwide travels, trips to McDonalds and/or witty banter. We quickly came to a deal. The car park did cost him 8,000, so I felt slightly bad at his less than nifty 30p profit on my ride. I quickly got over it. Unfortunately, it came back after I got out and thought he might hit me with his car. He didn’t, therefore, a positive end to my trip.



2 comments:

  1. Hi Nadia, your words and photos are wonderful. I am writing some things about Bishkek too and I loved my time in the city. I lingered a bit longer than you (4-5 months in and out) and it has some charm and magnetism. Nice to meet you and best wishes for your next adventure in life. Jonny

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  2. Did you ever find out why they change the flag in Bishkek every two hours? Is this part of their "Changing of the Guard" like other capital cities around the World?

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